The Traveling Fool

6 Texas Road Trip Stops With History, Culture, and Bloodsucking Creatures

Bob Bales Season 6 Episode 45

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We map a six-stop Southeast Texas loop where Texas independence, immigrant craft, Spanish missions, and small-town museums meet rivers, saloons, and a famously strange cryptid. The route works as a long weekend or a slow, weeklong wander with time to linger and learn.

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Bob Bales:

Hi, and welcome to The Traveling Fool, the show where we talk about travel destinations and the history and culture around those destinations. I'm your host, Bob Bales, and today I'm going to take you on a Texas road trip. Six destination stops that are just full of history and culture. And if you believe the stories, blood sucking creatures. So stay tuned, and we'll be right back.

Bob Bales:

Now before we get started, do me a favor and hit that like or subscribe button. I really would appreciate it. And you may even want to check out the travelingfool.com blog. If you go to the website, you can sign up for the monthly newsletter. I send it out towards the end of every month. I don't sell your information. The only place it goes is to subscribe to the newsletter. And the newsletter is full of travel news and contests. So you can maybe sign up for a contest and win a trip somewhere around the United States or even internationally. So check it out.

Bob Bales:

Now, today we are talking about Texas road trips. And Texas is a big state. I mean you got various regions in Texas, North Texas, South Texas, the Hill Country, East Texas, the plains, all of this type stuff. And so you can't really, unless you want to take a week or two, or three weeks, go on a road trip throughout the state of Texas. So today we're going to take a portion of that. And we're going to go to Southeast Texas. And we're going to hit six road stops that you can make that are just full of history, culture, and like I teased a little bit, blood sucking creatures if you believe the stories. Now this trip is perfect for folks that live around central Texas, Austin, San Antonio, or in the Houston area, or even down around Corpus and down in the valley area. If you live in North Texas or West Texas, it's going to take you a while to get down to this part of the country. But we're going to take it from if you were heading from San Antonio in that area towards Houston. If you were heading from Houston up, you can still do it this way or you can take the other route. Now I've been to all of these places. I just didn't do it in one specific road trip. But this makes for a great, oh I don't know, three-day road trip, and you could probably even stretch it into a week and still not see everything there.

Bob Bales:

But just south of Interstate 10, Interstate 10 runs between Houston and San Antonio. If you go south of Interstate 10, the first place you want to stop at is Gonzalez, Texas. And some may not be familiar with Gonzalez, Texas, but it holds a very important place in Texas history. Now I know whether you're from Texas or not. Chances are you've seen t shirts, handbags, and everything else with a little sign or logo that says "Come and Take It". Got a picture of a cannon on it usually. Well, that originated in Gonzalez, Texas. Gonzalez is where they had the incident that started the first shot in Texas independence against Mexico. They had a cannon, the Mexican Army wanted to come and retrieve the cannon, and the Texans said, No, you just come and take it, and they had a little fight. Didn't last long. They fired a couple of shots off. The Mexican army said, okay, well, we'll just leave them alone, and later left. But it was the first shot in Texas independence. And if you go to Gonzalez, Texas, they have the Gonzalez Memorial Museum. Fabulous little museum. It's just kind of tucked away. There's hardly anybody ever there. I went in and visited it, and the one thing they do have is the actual canon from the Come and Take It Canon incident. And they have all kinds of other stuff there that deals with Texas independence in the area about the history of Gonzalez and what all is going around there. It makes for a fantastic stop on the Texas Independence Trail, and it ties in with history and culture and everything else. It's a fabulous little museum. You gotta stop by there and look at it.

Bob Bales:

Another thing that Gonzalez has is the Eggleston House, and that was built in eighteen forty eight. Sits across from the Gonzalez Memorial Museum. And the Eggleston House was one of the first houses built in Gonzalez, and it's a fine example of what's called a dog run house. Now for those unfamiliar with the dog run house, it's one long single story home with two rooms. You have one room that's a sleeping quarters, and you have the other room which is the kitchen. And in between there's a big open breezeway, kind of like a little runway, and that's where the dogs slept. People kept dogs for protection out in the country. And so they called it a dog run house, and this is a fine example of a dog run house. In fact, I had a relative that lived in a dog run house, a great uncle. When I was a little kid, we used to go visit him, and I was fascinated by that house. And he was a cool old man to talk to, had some great stories. But the Eggleston House sits just right across from the Memorial Museum, and you really should stop by and take a look at it.

Bob Bales:

Another interesting thing to look at while you're in Gonzalez is the Gonzales County Jail Museum. Now the jail was built in 1887 and held a few notorious people. One of them was John Wesley Harden. He was a gunfighter turned lawyer in the state of Texas, notorious, once shot a man for snoring. I've had that thought once or twice, but I never shot the person. But the jail was really fascinating. You got the downstairs area, and in fact the sheriff lived in the downstairs area with his family at one time. And then you can go upstairs where all the jail cells were in the little execution area where they actually hung prisoners at one time. But Gonzalez is a really cool old Texas town to take a look at. Another thing that's there is a JB Wells Home and Museum. Another home built in the 1800s. This one was around 1885, but it was home to a cattle baron and his family, and it's just full of heirlooms and family stuff, and it gives you a really good insight to what life was like in the Texas country in the 1800s.

Bob Bales:

But if you like outdoor stuff, Palmetto State Park has two hundred and seventy acres of south central Texas countryside, and it even includes a four acre lake, and the San Marcos River runs right through it, so you could have a blast at Palmetto. Gonzalez also has Pioneer Village. What they've done is take a bunch of historic buildings and homes and kind of recreated an area. Pioneer Village has ten historic 19th and 20th century homes and buildings, including log homes, a church, and a museum there. They do battle reenactments and other special events that are held there throughout the year. Now, if you like weapons, the Robert Lee Brothers Jr. Memorial Library. It's a state of the art library facility, and it also includes Charles Du Bois' collection, which is the largest private gun collection on display in the United States. I've seen a lot of big gun collections, but if it's the largest private gun collection, you know it is amazing. A lot of very rare and one of a kind firearms, as well as a collection of war collectibles and memorabilia. Definitely a place that you want to go and look at.

Bob Bales:

And they have a few other things in Gonzalez, like the World War I German Krupp 105mm cannon. It's situated on East Avenue. It stands as one of three Krupp cannons that were seized from German forces during World War I and transported to Texas. And Gonzalez has one of the three. And if you want to stop by a place that maybe a couple of famous people went to, the Alcalde Hotel sits right off of the square. And it's been an iconic building in Gonzalez since it was first built in 1926. It's a small eighteen room hotel, had plans to get larger, and you can ask them why they stopped at eighteen rooms. There's a story behind it. But it is family owned and operated, and it has hosted guests in the past such as Bonnie and Clyde, Elvis, and other actors and musicians, and it is a really neat little hotel to stop and take a look at. So Gonzalez, Texas, that's your first stop on a six stop trip. And you could spend all day in Gonzalez and enjoy it.

Bob Bales:

Now right down the road from Gonzalez, we would be remiss if we did not talk about the small town of Shiner. Now Shiner's been around for quite a while. All these little towns were in the eighteen hundreds when they were established. And Shiner has a museum there that is near and dear to my heart, the Ellers Cigar Factory. It was established in Shiner in eighteen ninety four. Texas used to make a lot of cigars. And it's in a real small structure. It's located on Avenue H just in front of the Ellers family home. But at one point they employed five skilled union workers that were each paid one cent per cigar, and the factory produced hand rolled cigars that were packed in wooden boxes and shipped across the state of Texas. Well, they've still got a little museum there that talks about it. They no longer make cigars. There's only like one or two really major cigar makers in Texas, or they're based in Texas. They don't even make them here. But at one point, Texas did make quite a lot of cigars.

Bob Bales:

They also have the Edwin Walter Memorial Museum. Talks about Shiner's history. The displays include antique gun collections, an old time country store, and just a whole lot more. It's a neat little memorial museum to check out. Now, if you're there around lunchtime or even in the evening time, you might want to stop by the Palace Saloon. Records trace its roots back to at least 1890 as a modest one story wood frame structure. And in the early 1900s, the original structure was replaced with a more substantial two story brick building. Today it's a restaurant, bar, and live music venue. You can check out their Facebook post or their Facebook page at the Palace Saloon in Shiner, Texas, and you can see all the upcoming acts. It is a really nice place to stop by and they got great food too. Now the main reason everybody wants to stop by Shiner, I know that's what drew me the first time. Shiner is home to Shiner Brewery. Well Shiner Beer. And Texas does love its Shiner Beer. At one time you could only get Shiner in the surrounding counties and maybe as far as way as San Antonio and possibly Houston. Now it's all over the state, and I'm pretty sure they sell it out of state as well. And Shiner does make a great beer, but it traces its history back to the early 1900s when the German and Czech immigrants who had settled in Shiner, they were really looking for that beer that tasted like back home, that old world quality that they remembered. So after they discovered some artisan water sources, that dream became a reality and they put up a two-story tin shed on the side of the well with that water becoming the foundation for Shiner's first beer. Now the next thing they needed to do was find them a really good brew master to help them perfect their methods. So the settlers located a Bavarian by the name of Kosmos Spoetzl. And Kosmos was classically trained brewer from Germany, so they brought him into Shiner and an old world recipe that had been with Spoetzl's family for years. And when he started making his recipe, it was just like drinking beer from home. And today Shiner Beer is doing gangbusters. People love Shiner. And if you're ever there you can take a tour of the brewery. They will show you how they make their beer, and you can even pick up some and take it with you. Don't drink and drive, but you can take it home with you at least.

Bob Bales:

Now if you travel a little further south from Shiner, you are going to come to the town of Cuero, Texas. Texas has a lot of town names that when you look at it, you really don't know how to pronounce it. Cuero is spelled C U E R O and Cuero is a small little town with a huge history. If you like museums and strange museums and historic museums, trust me, Cuero has it. It's a small town, and the thing that drew me there the first time was the Chisholm Trail Heritage Museum. the Chisholm Trail starts in Texas, but they had cattle driven up from the valley near South Texas in Mexico. They also had cattle that originated out of this area and a couple other places in South Texas. And they all went north and wound up around Abilene, Kansas. But the Chisholm Trail Heritage Museum is a fantastic little museum that talks all about the cowboy days of driving herds of cattle south from Texas, up through North Texas, through the Indian territories and the hardships that they endured to the weather and everything else. It would take a couple of three months to drive hundreds and thousands of cattle up north up into Kansas. They needed them, put them on the railroads, and sent them out east. People wanted that beef. Chisholm Trail Heritage Museum is a really, really informative museum, tells you all about that period of time. Great place to stop.

Bob Bales:

They also have the Cuero Heritage Museum, and it's located not very far away from the Chisholm Trail Museum, but it's in the Cuero Federal Building, which was the old former post office built in 1915. And it's more of a museum that talks about the history and heritage of the Cuero area itself, notable people that lived there, life in the 18 and early 1900s. It gives you a really interesting perspective. Now, not far from it, you have the Pharmacy and Medical Museum of Texas. Now it's located in a building built in 1889 by the Heaton brothers, and it was designed to be a pharmacy and drugstore and has never housed anything different until it became a museum. The first floor displays items from the late 1800s to the early 1900s, and the second floor shows off an early medical doctor's office and a dentist's office as well, as well as other medically related items. It's always neat to go and look at these pharmacy and medical museums of how they did things in the 1800s. I mean, I don't like shots, I don't like getting teeth worked on, and you look at how they did it in the 1800s, you're like, oh Lord, I don't think I would have ever survived.

Bob Bales:

They also have the DeWitt County Historical Museum, and it's located in an old home called the Bates Shepherd Home, which was built in 1886. It's also listed on the National Register of Historic Places and is a recorded Texas historical landmark. In addition to the Bates home, there's a two-room log cabin complete with a dog run, another dog run cabin that's also located on those grounds. Really interesting stop to take and get a good look at the whole area around there and what happened around the Cuero and DeWitt County area. Now I kind of teased you at first and told you there was blood sucking creatures. Well, depends on if you believe the stories or not. But Cuero is the epicenter for Chupacabra sightings in Texas. If you've never heard of Chupacabra's, it is Spanish and it means goat sucker, and it's a legendary creature or cryptid in various parts of America. The name comes from animals that are purported vampires. The Chupacabra is said to attack and drink the blood of livestock, including goats. That's where it got its name. First reported in Puerto Rico in the s in the 1970s when goats and other small animals were found with puncture holes and drained of blood, and many sightings have occurred since then, and photos have been captured as well on trail cams. Now there is one local who reportedly has a stuffed Chupacabra that was found dead on the side of the road near her ranch. The animal looks weird. I mean it has no hair, a hunched back, kind of leathery skin, blue eyes, and it's a canine looking creature, but they have since DNA tested that. And apparently that particular animal is a mix of a Mexican wolf and a coyote that probably has mange or something. I mean it is weird looking, there's no doubt about it. But that does not explain all the other multiple sightings, unless there's just a big herd of deformed mangy half wolf, half coyotes roaming the area.

Bob Bales:

But Cuero isn't the only place they found these. Chupacabra's have been sighted in other parts of the country as well. And like I said, there's photos of that you can look up of these things that have been captured on trail cams, and they do look weird. They don't look like a wolf, they don't look like a coyote, and they don't look like a dog. And like I said, unless there's a big herd of mangy deformed animals running around that are running all through South Texas and everywhere else, I don't know what it is. Now granted, some people say they've seen them and Shiner Brewery is not far away, so some may be attributed to that, I don't know. But that does not explain the photos that they've shown. And Cuero is dead in the epicenter. More sightings have happened around Cuero than any place else in the state of Texas. So if you decide to spend the night in Cuero, I don't know if I go walking around out in the woods at night, you know, out in the brush and everything. But might be good to keep your eyes open. Who knows what you'll see.

Bob Bales:

A few miles away from Cuero comes to one of my favorite towns. I tell you, I love Goliad, I love Shiner and Cuero and everything. Goliad is right down the road from Cuero. And the Goliad State Park is a complex. It's located right on the San Antonio River, and it contains a refurnished, restored Spanish colonial era mission called the Mission of Nuestra Senora del Esparitu Santo de Zuniga. This thing's been there forever. It kind of fell in disrepair at one time and they've since restored it. Beautiful, beautiful Spanish mission. And it's right at Goliad State Park. And Goliad State Park has a lot of things that you can see and do. You can go swimming and fishing there and boating and kayaking and just all kinds of stuff. It's a really cool park. And this sets right at the entrance of it. It is gorgeous. Now inside the park, down the main road from the park headquarters, you can also tour the ruins of the 1750s Mission Rosario. It's actually Mission Nuestra Signora del Rosario. It's in ruins, but you can still go down there and visit it. And like I said, there's all kinds of cool stuff to do in that park, but Goliad has a huge history during the time of Texas Independence. It also is the birthplace of Ignacio Zaragoza. Now you're thinking, well, who the heck is that? His house, the birthplace house is still there. And there's an amphitheater and a bronze statue of Zaragoza that are also on the grounds and everything. But on May fifth, eighteen sixty two, in the Spanish colonial city of Puebla, General Zaragoza and his soldiers overpowered a French expedition forces at the Battle of Puebla. And you're thinking, okay, well that's that's all well and good. Today the victory is celebrated in both Mexico and the US, and it's commonly called Cinco de Mayo, May fifth, eighteen sixty two. That's where Cinco de Mayo comes from. It's in celebration of his soldiers overpowering the French expedition in Puebla. And he was born right there.

Bob Bales:

Now right across from his house, one of my favorite places to visit in Texas, the Presidio La Bahia. Presidio La Bahia at its present location was established in seventeen forty nine. Presidio La Bahia is the only fully restored Spanish Presidio west of the Mississippi River. It served as a key military post for nearly a century and is best known for the role it played in the war for independence between Texas and Mexico. It ended tragically with the death of Colonel Fannin and his command of over three hundred men. Now today the presidio has been faithfully restored to its eighteen thirty six appearance, and both it and our Lady of Loreto Chapel, which are right there on the grounds, are open for visitation year round. They also have taken the officers' quarters, which are two rooms and a little living area, and you can rent it and spend the night there. I looked at the website not long ago though, and it says temporarily closed. So they may be restoring or doing something in the officers' quarters. And I haven't done it yet, but I do have plans of going and spending the night because what they do is once four thirty or five o'clock rolls around, they lock the gates and you're in the presidio, and you have the run of the presidio all night long, but no visitors can come in, you can't have guests, it's just you and whoever you booked that room for. And there's two rooms, there's a little kitchen area, they've got a coffee pot and everything, but you've got the run of the grounds, and you've got the entire presidio all to yourself. Man, that's what I want to do. But the presidio, like I said, was also the place that Colonel Fannin and his 300 men were executed.

Bob Bales:

And just outside the walls of the La Bahia stands the Fannin Memorial Monument where he and his troops are buried. Another thing you want to do is visit that courthouse while you're there, the Goliad Courthouse. Texas has some beautiful courthouses. And there are people that just travel to visit courthouses. A lot of these were built in the eighteen hundreds, and Goliad's was built in eighteen ninety four. And it is a beautiful old courthouse. And in fact, there's a big old oak tree out front they call the hanging tree because they did use to hang prisoners there and execute them if they were found guilty. But it is a it's just a beautiful courthouse. Sits in a little it's a typical Texas town square. So you got it sits in a little town square and there's shops all around it, and it's really, really cool place. You might want to check out the Schroeder dance hall while you're there. The Schroeder dance hall is the second oldest dance hall in Texas. And since 1890, the venue's hosted generations of Texans who have enjoyed great music, great food, and friendly people.

Bob Bales:

They have a museum there called the Market House Museum, which is dedicated to preserving and presenting the history of Goliad. It contains exhibits and informational topics from Native Americans' ranching history, the family history of early settlers, some military stuff, farming equipment, firehouse artifacts. And there's a bunch of old mansions around there, so you can enjoy checking out those and enjoying the fishing or canoeing on the San Antonio River and just numerous parks and bike paths. And it's one of my favorite towns to visit.

Bob Bales:

Now about eight miles from Goliad is a small little town of Fannin, named after Colonel Fannin. And it is where the Fannin Battleground State Historic Site is located, which is, like I said, about eight, nine miles. On March twentieth, eighteen thirty six, Colonel James Fannin surrendered to the Mexican forces at the Battle of Coleto Creek. But Mexican General Santa Ana ordered Fannin and three hundred and forty two of his men executed once they got to Goliad, which were against the wishes of other Mexican commanders. He surrendered, the Mexican commander notified Santa Ana, Santa Ana said kill him, and that's what happened. The surrender and execution inflamed the Texas cause, spurring the battle cry, remember Goliad. And the site memorializes the soldiers who fought on the field. You can walk the grounds and view the stone obelisk that honors the spot where Fannin surrendered. Other than that, there's really not a lot to see in Fannin. It's not very big at all, but the Fannin Battleground is right there.

Bob Bales:

And if you continue on down the road, you're going to get to this the town of Victoria. Victoria, Texas is the largest town of the bunch that we're talking about today. And you've got the museum of Coastal Bend, which has 13,000 years of South Texas history. From the first peoples of the region to French explorer La Salle and the Spanish missions that followed. And it's located at the university, but it's open to everybody and you can go in there and check it out. I went in and checked it out. It was a great museum. Victoria also has Fossati's Delicatessen. And that's a place where history, hospitality, and good food all come together under one legendary roof. Fossati's was founded in eighteen eighty two by Italian immigrant Frank Napoleon Fossati. And Fossati isn't just the oldest delicatessen in Texas, it's one of the oldest family run restaurants in the entire country, still operated by the Fossati family today. And it stands proudly serving up delicious, time tested meals. I ate there and I just loved it. I mean, you're eating it in a place that's historic. And the food was great. I had a big old pastrami sandwich, I'm telling you, it was fantastic. And they make their own mustard there. They'll sell it to you in little jars. Great, great mustard. Goes with everything. I guess you could do something blasphemous like take their homemade mustard and put it on Texas corn dog, but I bet it's good. I haven't tried that. I may have to do that.

Bob Bales:

But you can swing by their tourism bureau and grab a printed old Victoria driving tour pamphlet, and that'll take you on a self-paced journey throughout town and all the really beautifully preserved neighborhoods and iconic landmarks and stories that shaped South Texas. There's over 80 historic sites, from Victorian era homes to century-old churches. Every stop along the route is a little window into the past. They have an exhibit there called the Tenna and Chris Thompson Gym and Mineral Exhibit. If you like looking at gems and precious stones and things like that, it features all kinds of rare gems and colorful minerals and crystals and fossils, and it's all curated to showcase the stunning beauty and diversity of geology. And it's a really neat little exhibit. Now, located on the University of Houston Victoria campus, the Victoria Regional History Center is the gateway to rich and diverse history for the coastal Bay and South Texas region. You've got personal letters and diaries that you can look at, historic maps, photographs, government documents, exhibits about early settlement and ranching, politics, civic life, and they have rotating exhibits that showcase unique aspects of the regional culture and the history of the area.

Bob Bales:

This is another place that's proud of their courthouse, which is standing proudly in downtown Victoria, the 1892 Victoria County Courthouse. And it's a living piece of Texas history as well. Designed by a renowned architect named J. Riley Gordon, the Romanesque revival masterpiece is one of the most beautiful and historically significant courthouses in the state. It's got a soaring clock tower, stately granite and intricate limestone detailing, and it's a striking example of the 19th century, craftsmanship. And inside you'll find restored courtrooms and elegant woodwork that transports you back in time. I went in and just of course nowadays you have to go through uh metal detectors and everything. So I walked up there with my camera and he said, Where are you headed to today? I said, I'm gonna go look at the old courthouse and take some photos. Can I do that? And he's like, Yeah, sure. So I went through the metal detector and walked in there and they were as nice as could be. Everybody would come out, and ask "Can I help you"? And I said, I'm I'm here taking photos of stuff. They're like, Oh sure, you may want to go up here and take this photo. And they were great about it. And it is a beautiful, beautiful courthouse. But they also have a lot of parks and outdoor activities and great dining options, and it's just a really cool town to visit.

Bob Bales:

So those are six stops on the Texas road trip. Now if you're leaving out of Houston, you might want to go through Victoria and wind up in Gonzalez and then come back down. It doesn't matter, either either way you go is great. If you really want to see everything and immerse yourself and enjoy the area, you might want to do it on a two or three day weekend. But like I said, you could take four or five days to visit this area. There's other things around those, between those towns to stop and look at and smaller things as well. But those six stops are iconic. Texas history, full of culture, maybe even a chupacabra or two, you never know. I enjoyed it. I've been down now when I went to that area, I went down there on three separate trips, just because I spent all day looking at stuff. And I live about an hour and a half from that area anyway, so I would get up early in the morning, drive down there, spend all day visiting one of those places and come back. Now I did spend two days in Victoria though. And that was great. I had a blast in Victoria. But other than that, I was making day trips down there, which you can do, you just can't see all six in one day.

Bob Bales:

If you ever get a chance, I would highly recommend it. It's a great area to explore and visit. Go to Gonzalez, visit the come and take it cannon, and who knows, maybe pick up a t-shirt or something that you picked up at the actual place that made that made the the slogan famous. Stop by Shiner, grab you a couple of six packs of Shiner beer. I like the Shiner Bach. That's a really good beer. And then swing down to Cuero and see if you can find a Chupacabra or two. Go by Goliad, check out La Bahia and uh the uh Spanish mission while you're there. Swing by Fannin and look at the battleground, the actual location where the battle took place, and then end up in Victoria. Spend a couple of days exploring Victoria. You will have a time and a half. It is a great time.

Bob Bales:

So that is our podcast for today. The Southeast Texas road trip with six stops. And I hope you get a chance to do it. I think you would really enjoy it. It makes for a great trip. Nice, leisurely, not a lot of tourists and crowds. There are people there, but it's just not the big tourist location where you got crowds bumping into you all the time. You can actually have time to explore, visit, and enjoy yourself.

Bob Bales:

So until next time, I really appreciate you listening. Don't forget to hit that like and subscribe button. But until next time, I hope to see you on the road and safe travels.

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