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The Traveling Fool
Traveling off the tourist path. Talking about those places most tourists just don't know about because, well, nobody ever told them. Also travel tips and news about travel and tourism to make your trip a little easier, cheaper and more memorable.
The Traveling Fool
Ashton Villa’s Hidden Past Meets Galveston Texas Coastal Charm
Step into the shadows of Galveston's most captivating historical mystery as we unlock the secrets of Ashton Villa and its unforgettable resident, Betty Brown. We'll also explore modern Galveston's vibrant charm—from historic districts and Gulf beaches to Victorian architecture and fresh seafood destinations. Subscribe now to hear more untold stories from America's most fascinating destinations!
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Hi and welcome to the Traveling Fool, the show that talks about travel destinations, history, culture and people of those places, along with travel tips and news. I'm Bob Bales, and today we're headed to the Gulf of Texas, the island city of Galveston, with a history of pirates, storms and secrets. Our story today revolves around a grand old mansion on Broadway Street in Galveston and its most unforgettable resident. So stay tuned and we'll be right back.
Bob Bales:Well, let's set the stage. It's Galveston in the 1850s, a bustling port city dubbed the Wall Street of the Southwest. Steamboats crowded the harbor, carrying cotton to New Orleans and goods to the frontier. Wealthy merchants built empires and their mansions lined Broadway Street like trophies, and among them, well, that stood Ashton Villa, a red-brick Italianate masterpiece built in 1859 by a fellow named James Moreau Brown, the fifth richest man in Texas. He was a hardware tycoon who had risen from a New Orleans clerk to a Galveston mogul, and James spared no expense. The villa boasted 14-foot ceilings, arched windows, iron-laced verandas and a gold room where gilded wallpaper gleamed under crystal chandeliers. It was the first brick mansion on the island, a symbol of the Brown family's status James, his wife Rebecca and their five children, including their fiery daughter Betty. Including their fiery daughter Betty. Born in 1855, Rebecca Ashton Brown,
Bob Bales:Betty, to everyone, was no ordinary Victorian woman.
Bob Bales:She was tall, had sharp wit and was called the Texas Princess by the Galveston Daily News for her extravagant lifestyle. From a young age, she defied the era's expectations. While other women were relegated to drawing rooms, betty was sketching landscapes, reading novels and dreaming of far-off places. By her twenties, she was a force of nature beautiful, bold and fiercely independent. She turned down marriage proposals from elite suitors across the South and Northeast, choosing freedom over marriage. Instead, she embarked on solo travels through Europe, Egypt, India, Jerusalem and Morocco, collecting treasures that reflected her eclectic taste ornate ostrich feather fans, intricate Middle Eastern jewelry and rare artifacts, many of which still grace Ashton Villa's display cases today. Betty's adventures made headlines. The Galveston Daily News reported her striding into a ball with kittens trailing her gowns train, a stunt that shocked high society. She smoked cigars, my kind of girl, raced carriages through Galveston streets and hosted lavish parties at Ashton Villa, where she had entertained with stories of her travels. Her paintings, vibrant landscapes and portraits adorned the mansion walls, each one a testament to her artistic talent. But life wasn't all glamour for Betty. During the Civil War, when she was a child, Ashton Villa became a Confederate hospital and headquarters. Young Betty saw wounded soldiers carried through the doors, their cries echoing in the halls. Her mother, Rebecca, nursed the men, and the experience left a mark on Betty's compassionate heart.
Bob Bales:By the 1880s, betty was back in Galveston, living at Ashton Villa with her parents and siblings. Betty was back in Galveston, living in Ashton Villa with her parents and siblings. Her sister, Matilda, or Tilly as she was known, was a gifted pianist who filled the house with music. While Betty's charisma made it the social hub of the island, she organized charity events, supported local artists and even helped establish Galveston's first art league. But the city faced challenges economic dips, yellow fever outbreaks and the constant threat of hurricanes. Then came 1900, the year that changed everything. The Great Storm, a Category 4 hurricane, struck Galveston on September the 8th, killing an estimated 6,000 to 12,000 people, the deadliest natural disaster in US history. Ashton Villa stood strong though its brick walls, a fortress. Betty, who by now was 45, opened the mansion to neighbors, turning it into a makeshift shelter. She spent weeks nurturing the injured, feeding the homeless and raising funds for orphans, showing a resilience that matched her flair.
Bob Bales:After the storm, Betty's life grew quieter. She never married, choosing to stay at Ashton Villa surrounded by her treasures and memories, and she continued painting, filling sketchbooks with scenes of Galveston's recovery. When she died in 1920, at the age of 65, she passed away in her bedroom on the second floor, the heart of the home she loved. And that's when the whispers began. Ashton Villa didn't stay quiet after Betty's death. Caretakers reported strange occurrences almost immediately. Footsteps echoed down the grand staircase where floodwaters had reached the 10th step during the 1900 storm. In the gold room where Betty's fans and paintings are displayed, chairs shifted overnight as if someone had rearranged them. Clocks in the parlor stopped at odd hours, their hands frozen. A groundskeeper quoted in 1920's Galveston Daily News article swore that he saw a woman in a turquoise gown Betty's favorite color standing by the gold room window gazing towards the gulf, and when he called out, she vanished.
Bob Bales:By the 1970s, when the Galveston Historical Foundation saved Ashton Villa from demolition, the stories multiplied, reports of doors swinging open, locked from the inside. Betty's souvenir box from her Middle Eastern travels, kept in a second-floor bedroom, was found unlocked without a key. Its contents rearranged. Bed covers in Betty's room appeared wrinkled, as if someone sat there just moments before. One caretaker in a 1978 Galveston Historical Foundation newsletter described hearing piano music late at night in the gold room, expecting vandals. He rushed in only to find the room empty, but the air was heavy with the smell of jasmine Betty's signature perfume.
Bob Bales:Although Betty wasn't a pianist, Tilly was and many attributed the music to her, and visitors have their own tales. A 1980s tour group saw a blonde woman on the second floor landing holding one of Betty's ostrich feather fans, only to disappear when approached. Another guest felt a cold hand brush their arm on the hallway and where Betty's paintings hung. Paranormal investigators in the 1990s brought in those EMF meters and voice recorders capturing spikes near the staircase and chilling EVP in the gold room. A woman's voice saying my home", followed by a man's angry murmur perhaps a suit or Betty had spurned Some believe Civil War soldiers from the villa's hospital days linger their boots echoing on the grounds. Others hear Tilly's piano, her melodies drifting through the halls, a reminder of her tragic life after escaping an abusive marriage.
Bob Bales:More recent accounts keep the mystery alive. During a 2015 wedding at Ashton Villa, which is now an event venue, guests reported alarms tripping without calls. A bride claimed her veil lifted, as if caught by a breeze in a closed room In 2020, a caterer heard a woman's voice ask who is the most beautiful of them all A phrase some tie to Betty's reputed vanity. A phrase some tie to Betty's reputed vanity. Ghost tours, especially during October's haunted harbor season, draw crowds hoping to feel her presence. Whether it's jasmine in the air, a creaking door or a fleeting figure in turquoise, Betty Brown's enigma endures.
Bob Bales:Betty wasn't just a figure of mystery. She was a trailblazer who lived life on her own terms. She painted, traveled and defied a world that tried to tame her. Her presence at Ashton Villa, whether in footsteps, jasmine or moved furniture, is a testament to a spirit that's just too vibrant to fade. And Galveston isn't just a backdrop for Betty's tale. It's a living, breathing island where history, beauty and mystery collide. So let's take a deeper dive into why you should visit Galveston, Texas, whether or not you believe in spirits, and experience its timeless charm.
Bob Bales:Galveston is a coastal town that has 32 miles of beaches, historic districts and a population of about 53,000-54,000. The balance is a small town warmth with a big city energy. You can start your journey at Ashton Villa, which is on Broadway at Avenue J, now managed by the Galveston Historical Foundation, and public tours are kind of limited due to its use as an event venue. Special programs, especially October's Spooky History events, let you explore its opulent rooms, but you can walk through the gold room where Betty's paintings and fans are displayed, or climb the grand staircase where footsteps echo. Check galvestonhistory. org for event schedules and booking details. And just a few blocks away from there, the Strand Historic District is a Victorian time capsule. Its red brick buildings, once home to cotton barons, now house boutiques, galleries and restaurants. You can stop by La King's Confectionery, where candy makers pull saltwater taffy the old fashion way, or sip a beer at the Devil in the Deep Tap Room, a local favorite. Antique hunters could lose hours at the Antique Warehouse rummaging through nautical relics, vintage jewelry and 19th century furniture. Man, they've just got everything. And there's a lot of other antique shops in town if that's your thing. For culture, the 1894 Grand Opera House hosts concerts, ballets and plays. Check thegrand. com for all its upcoming shows, and if you're lucky, you might catch a performance of A Christmas Carol during the holidays. It's a nod to Galveston's Dickinson charm, I can tell you, though, those tickets are hard to get, so you better book them early.
Bob Bales:For beach lovers, Galveston's got a lot of options. Stewart Beach is perfect for families with lifeguards, and volleyball courts and picnic areas. East Beach is kind of more of a party spot, hosting live music, bonfires and summer festivals. The seawall built after the 1900 storm to protect the city stretches for 10 miles along the gulf. You can rent a bike from Island Bicycles and pedal its length, stopping for just views of the gulf or a quick dip in the gulf itself. The historic Pleasure Pier with its neon-lit Ferris wheel and roller coasters brings retro thrills. You can try the Iron Shark coaster for an adrenaline rush For water adventures Third Coast Parasail, on nearby Crystal Beach offers, parasailing where you can soar above the gulf and maybe spot a dolphin or two.
Bob Bales:And if you're a history buff like me, well, Galveston's your place. You've got the Bishop's Palace, a block from Ashton Villa, and it's a Gothic masterpiece with stained glass windows and carved oak staircases. It was built in 1892 for a lawyer named Walter Gresham and it's open daily for tours. You can also check galvestonhistory. org for the times and all their other properties that they manage. The Moody Mansion, which was home to a cotton and banking dynasty, showcases the Gilded Age opulence with its 20,000 square foot of marble and mahogany. The Texas Seaport Museum has the 1877 tall ship Elissa. It's docked at the harbor. You can climb aboard a restored schooner and they do go out every now and then. And if you want to pay the money, go for it. At the Galveston Railroad Museum they have vintage locomotives and passenger cars. It tells the story of the island's railroading past. It also has a model train exhibit that the kids just love.
Bob Bales:Man, if you're a foodie, well, get ready. Galveston's culinary scene is as rich as its history. Gaido's, which opened in 1911, serves gulf shrimp, crab and oysters that'll make your taste buds sing man. Try that stuffed flounder that they have. Shrimp and Stuff is a local dive that they've got two or three of, if I'm not mistaken, and it's famous for po'boys piled high with fried shrimp or catfish. For dessert, stop by a place called Patty Cakes Bakery. It has so many sweet treats you'll have trouble deciding on just one, so pick up a couple. You can wash it down with a frozen mango daiquiri at Daiquiri Time Out on the Strand, where bartenders will also mix you up some killer cocktails. Now, if you're craving something upscale, Number 13, Prime Steak and Seafood, offers Gulf views along with Japanese Wagyu steaks, seafood and impeccable service.
Bob Bales:Galveston's spooky side extends beyond Ashton Villa. Ghost Tours of Galveston takes you through the Strand, historic cemeteries and the seawall, sharing tales of pirate Jean Lafitte, Civil War soldiers and victims of the 1900 storm. The Hotel Galvez, which I've stayed a couple of times, is a 1911 landmark known as the Queen of the Gulf. It has its own legend. The lovelorn lady in room 501 was said to flicker the lights on and off and whisper to guests. So if you feel brave enough, just tell them you want to book room 501.
Bob Bales:Galveston's calendar is packed with events that bring the island to life. They've got Mardi Gras, which is held in February. It rivals New Orleans with all of its parades, bead throwing and street parties. You can check out the mashed balls at the Tremont House for a glamorous night. Summer's sandcastle beach competition draws artists who sculpt just jaw-dropping castles and mermaids and sea creatures from the sand. And in December, Dickens on the Strand transforms downtown into a Victorian Christmas, with carolers, street vendors selling roasted chestnuts and locals in top hats. The Pleasure Pier hosts fireworks, live music and family-friendly festivals. You can visit galveston. com for all the event dates. They've always got something going on down there. They've got Jeep Week, they've got motorcycle events you name it. They've got something happening all the time in Galveston.
Bob Bales:Now for a classic Galveston experience, you can book you a horse-drawn carriage. With Galveston Carriage Limousine you can clip-clop past Broadway mansions and palm trees, swaying overhead as your drivers share stories of Betty Brown on the island's colorful past. Or you can rent an e-bike from Island Bicycles and cruise the seawall, stopping it and checking out some of the murals painted by the local artists. Or grab a coffee somewhere. Mod Coffeehouse is a great place to stop if you're craving a good cup of coffee. And if you're feeling adventurous, try a fishing charter with Galveston Sea Ventures. You can go out and try your hand at redfish or flounder fishing.
Bob Bales:So why visit Galveston? Well, it's a place where you can touch the past, savor the present and feel the island's heartbeat. Ashtonville is elegant. The strands's charm and the Gulf's endless horizon make it a destination like no other. You can stroll where Betty walked, taste the seafood she loved and maybe catch a whiff of jasmine on the breeze. Whether you're chasing history, adventure or just a perfect sunset, galveston's a great place to visit. It's a city that's withered storms, pirates at time, and the spirit, betty's spirit, shines brighter than ever.
Bob Bales:Let's just circle back to Betty for just a second. She wasn't just the Texas princess or a figure of mystery. She was a pioneer, a woman who painted her world, traveled the globe and helped rebuild her city after its darkest hour. Her legacy lives in Ashton Villa's walls and the paintings she created, the fans she collected and the stories that linger. Whether it's a creaking door, a piano's soft notes or a voice asking who's the most beautiful, betty's enigma is Galveston's heartbeat, a reminder that some lives are too bold to be forgotten. So pack your bags and head to Galveston. Visit Ashton Villa, explore the Strand, paddle to bay and listen for Betty's Echo. You won't just see Galveston, you'll live her story. Thanks for joining me this week. I appreciate you listening. If you like it, hit that like button. Tell others about it. I'd sure appreciate it. You can go to the website and sign up for the monthly newsletter. I promise you won't get a lot of trash. Just one newsletter a month and until next time, Safe travels.
